Pat Fontaine, the executive director of the Mississippi Hospitality and Restaurant Association, said he understands why some businesses don’t apply for funds, but that reluctance on the part of some doesn’t discount the need of others. At least 1,900 restaurants in Mississippi applied for federal money, but only 500 received it, he said.

While Mississippi’s restaurant industry seems to be in better shape than other state’s right now, Fontaine said, the biggest challenge stems from finding people to work and dealing with rising food costs. Fontaine is skeptical that the state will see a huge jump in restaurant sales, he said, and concerned about how this will affect customers.

“This year, we may see sales decrease, gas prices continue to go up. So those food costs continue to rise. There’s those factors that prohibit people from going out, particularly on a frequent basis,” Fontaine told Stateline.

Still, some people have found opportunity. The diminished presence of restaurants reinvigorated some locals to open new restaurants in spite of the hardships.

In December 2021, Leland, Mississippi, natives Lisa and Cedric Bush opened the Bush’s Kountry Cafe, formerly the Leland Café, a soul food restaurant with live weekend entertainment.

For 25 years, the Bushes’ dream had been to open a restaurant in their hometown. They have seen the economic health of their hometown decline with closures of restaurant and other businesses. Encouraged by the pandemic, the duo envisioned a space for families and out-of-towners to have conversations over good food and good fun. Each weekend, the restaurant remains busy.

“Why start a business in a pandemic? Well, God says ‘I’ll flourish you in a time of famine.’ So even in famine, he would direct you to do things then he makes it possible,” Cedric Bush said. “We can’t worry about the pandemic. . . . People are in need: They need to smile again.”

Lisa Bush, sitting in a booth across from her husband, added: “And we want to have experiences where they can. There’s an old tradition of people sitting around a dinner table and just talking and enjoying their food together. And we’re seeing that with grandmothers and grandchildren. That lets us know we’re doing something positive.”

This article originally appeared Stateline, an initiative of The Pew Charitable Trusts, and is reprinted with permission.